This guide is designed to help you choose the perfect stick for you from the wide range we offer.
It’s common for players to think they should just choose the top model automatically, but being 'the best stick in the range' doesn’t automatically make it the best stick for you.
You should choose a stick that enhances your game, which comes down to the shape and where the stick sits in our range, since that will determine the way it feels and performs.
This guide will try and help navigate those choices.
WHAT IS THE CARBON CONTENT?
This is a common question but not the right one. It comes from the way hockey sticks have been marketed for a long time generally but it's too simplistic for a product that is not simple, so we've never followed that path.
Carbon comes in various grades and qualities, so unless you know that detail any claimed percentage is worthless. Equally stiffness does not just come from carbon - lay-up methods, resins and moulding processes are key factors too. Other materials added to the stick are really important too.
Our unique lay-up methods were developed to create the maximum power to weight output, i.e. stiffness, required at each level, enhanced by using the best materials and manufacturing processes.
As a guideline to the power potential of a stick (since this is usually what people are looking for) we have devised the Carbon Quotient method of classification. This gives you an indicative level of performance to compare sticks within our range and against others.
Consider other factors too though:
When the ball and stick come together how does that connection feel through your hands? It's important to get something you feel technically and physically tuned into - doesn't matter how hard you hit a dead ball if it feels horrible or you can't control a moving one...
Touch and feel are principally dictated by material content (indicated by our Carbon Quotient rating).
It's essentially about managing the energy of the stick/ball connection, governed by how materials react at molecular level. Carbon Fibre (high end) does not give, flex or bend, so the connection is sharper and clearer in your touch, with more swing speed continuing through the ball when you strike (more power). Glassfibre (low end) does flex, so energy is absorbed for a more cushioned touch when you control the ball and not transferred to the same degree to soften the feel (and lessen the power) on striking.
Our stick shapes are Pro 25, T-Bone (both late bow), DII, Samurai and Ronin (all extra late bow).
It's important to pick the shape that suits your playing style - or enhances your attempts to develop in certain areas.
For a player that has a 'dynamic' skill set - lots of dribbling, 3D skills, flicking etc - the extra low bend on a Deuce II is desirable, which you can enhance further with our Samurai profile or ultimately with the Ronin. With these shapes you are set for the dynamic stuff but need to adjust your hands (get over and ahead of the ball) if you want to keep it flat. You also don't need the stick parallel to the ground on the backhand - in fact that will prevent the correct contact with the ball.
If your game is more rounded and focused on the basics then the late bows Pro 25 and T-Bone will be more your thing. These are set up for controlling and moving the ball and a more orthodox hand/ball position. You can still do the dynamic stuff, you just have to shift your hands (and get your stick almost parallel to the ground on the backhand).
WHAT SIZE?
It's different for growing youngsters to developing players to settled adults.
To keep life simple, for a growing young player the rough rule of thumb is that the top of the stick handle when the stick is stood next to the player should be around the top of the hip or just above. Please note that this covers junior players and stick lengths from 24" to 36" inclusive. Once they hit 36" / 36.5" the stick doesn't grow with you anymore - unless you want it to.
The 'standard' adult size of stick is 36.5" and the majority of adult players will use this size. However if you want to pick a longer length as that suits you more, i.e. you feel more comfortable with it or want the technical benefits it can give, then there's nothing to say you should not pick a longer length. Usually though a younger player would sit with a 36.5" for a while before making that call.
BUT ALWAYS REMEMBER...
In all cases our advice is to pick the stick that suits YOU. Not what you are told to get, what feels comfortable to YOU. If it feels like something is wrong, first try to work on your technique to see if you can fix it. If you can't and you really feel something needs to change then look at your stick - shape, power, touch and feel, length, weight and balance.
Think it through and work out what YOU need. It is YOU that will be using the stick so it is YOU that needs it to feel right!
